SAIL CARE + TIPS

We offer the following suggestions for maintaining your sails

U.V. DAMAGE

UV damage to sails is the single most contributing factor to sail deterioration. Whether it be racing or cruising, sails do not like UV.

Roller furling sails can be removed during non usage and stored in a dry location to extend the life of the UV sun cover.

Mainsails should have a cover that protects all of the sail with no part of the sail exposed.

Racing sails are often built with laminate materials that degrade with UV. Limit exposure as much as is reasonable.

MOISTURE

Moisture is also an issue with maintaining your sails. Mold and mildew can develop if the sails are put away wet or stored in a wet environment for extended periods of time. A dehumidifier is a popular solution to keeping your sails and boat dry.

Saltwater is another source of corrosion, particularly with hanks and press in rings. Hanks can be cleaned with white vinegar and a small brush. It is recommended to use a dry lubricant for the hanks, as grease and similar lubricants can attract salt and gum up the lubricant.

SAIL CLEANING

Everyone likes a nice white sail. An often-used approach to a dirty or mildewed sail is to send it to a sail cleaner. We recommend being cautious about doing that as bleach, TSP and other harsh chemicals are typically used. The chemicals in these cleaning agents will damage the finish on the sails and become a lot softer, which equates to the sail not holding its shape as well.

We recommend using simple green, or citrus based cleaners, and a soft brush to clean. While the sail won’t get as white looking as sending the sail to the cleaner, the finish on the sails won’t degrade.

Space to wash/clean sails is sometimes difficult to come by. We recommend doing it on your boat on warm, light wind days. The sail can be raised a few feet at a time and scrubbed down with a good rinse. Dry thoroughly before putting away.

FOLDING SAILS

Try to start with a dry sail if you can. If possible, spread wet sails out and allow them to dry. Consider a freshwater rinse if the sail is salty before drying.

Avoid folding on asphalt or concrete to minimize abrasion. Grassy areas work well.

Remove battens, if present, for the sail to fit into the bag properly. Tape battens together and place in a safe spot.

Have a look at your sailbag to size how wide the folds need to be. The folds should be narrower than the bag so that it can be closed.

Try to favor stacking the luff side of the sail as you fold to make it easier to rehoist. Smaller folds on the clew side of the fold will help the luff stack better.

If you are storing the sail off the boat, make sure there are no rodents. Occasionally we get sails in with holes chewed into them.

ROLLING SAILS

If your sail came with a tube bag, it should be rolled. Mylar and Dacron with a hard racing finish are sails that typically get rolled.

Try to start with a dry sail if you can. If possible, spread wet sails out and allow them to dry. Consider a freshwater rinse if the sail is salty before drying.

Avoid folding on asphalt or concrete to minimize abrasion. Grassy areas work well.

There are two common ways to roll a sail up — from the head down and from the middle of the sail.

If the sail has battens, make sure they line up with the roll.

Making the roll parallel to the draftstripes usually works well.